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	<title>说一不二 &#187; 游记</title>
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		<title>行走纽约 III</title>
		<link>http://onespace.eu/2009/11/25/wandering-in-new-york-3/</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Nov 2009 23:54:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>说一不二</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[游历]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[走进北美]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[旅行]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[游记]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[美国]]></category>

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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>接着<a href="http://onespace.eu/2009/11/08/wandering-in-new-york/" target="_blank">上上文</a>以及<a href="http://onespace.eu/2009/11/15/wandering-in-new-york-2/" target="_blank">上文</a>继续纽约回忆录。</p>
<p><strong>华尔街</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://onespace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Wallst.jpg" rel="lightbox[479]"><img style="display: inline; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border: 0px;" title="Wallst" src="http://onespace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Wallst_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="Wallst" width="153" height="222" align="left" /></a>离开WTC的遗址，走过一条马路，你就会来到阴暗中的华尔街。阴暗并非修饰，而是真实的描述。因为周围老旧的写字楼紧密而高耸的矗立在华尔街两侧，在加上与其声名不相匹配的窄小的街道，使得阳光很难能够播撒进来。走在华尔街上，心中还是难免会有些许的激动，向往着看到那些如雷贯耳的投行的名字，向往着看到华盛顿同志宣誓就职的地方，向往着看到NYSE（纽约证券交易所）中的血雨腥风。但当你踏上阴暗的华尔街的时候，就注定你一定会失望而归。投行们大部分都搬离了华尔街而选择在Manhattan中区落户，有些甚至搬离了纽约去到较比安全的新泽西州；华盛顿就职之所在依然屹立，不过已经不是昔日的联邦大楼了；而NYSE那窄小破旧的门前荷枪实弹的警卫也暗示着你，之前曾经对游客们敞开胸怀的证交所也已经闭门谢客了。</p>
<p>这一切好像让华尔街显得有些死气沉沉，让人提不起任何兴致来。其实说到底，华尔街已经从实质走向了标志。华尔街不再是荷兰人筑的那堵墙，也不再是英国人开的那条街，同样也不是那个种着梧桐树见证证券交易诞生的那个华尔街了；华尔街成为了一个代表着资本的品牌，从有形成为了无形。你再也不能从这条街本身追寻到太多辉煌的痕迹，因为真正的辉煌已经伴着华尔街的的逐渐阴暗撒向了整个资本世界。</p>
<p>于是，伴着这些思绪，匆匆走过了华尔街，甚至忘记了到此一游的存照。</p>
<p><span id="more-479"></span></p>
<p><strong>联合国</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://onespace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/UN2.jpg" rel="lightbox[479]"><img style="display: inline; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border: 0px;" title="UN2" src="http://onespace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/UN2_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="UN2" width="210" height="195" align="left" /></a> 联合国，是属于世界所有人的，是地球公民共有的。接待我们的意大利mm如是说。</p>
<p>于是我问，那为什么我需要美国的签证才能到此一游？</p>
<p>意大利mm的眼光闪动了一下，对我一笑，算是回答了。</p>
<p>其实真的没想难为那位热情可爱的意大利mm，也许我真的应该接受这种美好的愿景吧。带着地球公民的心情去拜访属于全人类的联合国。然而，理想主义伴随着年龄的增长逐渐淡去了，现实和愿景的冲突却让我很难不去思考。于是有了开篇不太应景的提问。</p>
<p>来到联合国总部的时候已经傍晚，我算是当天的是最后一批游客。与我同时来到总部大楼的还有波兰来的一家四口，俄罗斯来的一对情侣，还有欧洲其他地区的一些游客，我们这10多个人组成了一个临时旅行团。在总部大楼参观的过程中，意大利mm，那位在开头被我小小刁难了一下的联合国实习生，作为我们这些人的导游。</p>
<p><a href="http://onespace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/UN.jpg" rel="lightbox[479]"><img style="display: inline; border: 0px;" title="UN" src="http://onespace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/UN_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="UN" width="167" height="216" /></a> <a href="http://onespace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/UN4.jpg" rel="lightbox[479]"><img style="display: inline; border: 0px;" title="UN4" src="http://onespace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/UN4_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="UN4" width="216" height="216" /></a><a href="http://onespace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/UN3.jpg" rel="lightbox[479]"><img style="display: inline; border: 0px;" title="UN3" src="http://onespace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/UN3_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="UN3" width="234" height="215" /></a></p>
<p>在我们走马观花的过程中，意大利mm经常给我们恶补一些联合国的常识。而在这个过程中，身边的波兰大叔貌似对中国有些特别的想法，一路经常与我‘探讨’。他问我为什么不让台湾加入，他问我中国为什么在最初拒绝加入反地雷使用协定，他问我为什么中国有世界上人数最多的军队……总之，他的‘求知欲’特别旺盛。也许是被苏联压抑的时间太长吧，对于体制内的中国，看得出来他有种发自内心的不爽。</p>
<p>在国外呆的时间长了，这样的人见过很多，记得在<a title="LSE" href="http://www.lse.ac.uk" target="_blank">LSE</a>读硕士的时候，就有法国同学要给我讲西藏的历史……于是见怪不怪，见招拆招，倒也没有影响我太多心情。直到最后，他再次又一次向我发问说：为什么国际上禁捕大象中国还给联合国送来象牙制成的礼物的时候，意大利mm也终于看不下去，没等我再次开口就直接帮我回答了那位有点愤青的波兰大叔。</p>
<p>联合国，真正能让我们联合在一起么？一个10多人组成的临时旅行团尚会如此，更何况要建立在国与国的立场上的博弈。回到开篇那愿景与现实的对立，我想，联合国也只能是一个向往一种幻象了。在这幻象下的，还是江湖，还是政治，还是人与人的无尽争斗，或文，或武，无休无止。</p>
<p>全文终。</p>
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